The Places We've Been

Wednesday 25 April 2012

Kakadu (22/4/12 - 26/4/12)

From Katherine we drove 80 kilometres north west to Pine Creek and then headed north east into Kakadu National Park.  We stopped at the Goymarr Interpretative Centre at the southern entrance.  As it was the end of the wet season, a number of roads were still closed and inaccessible.  However, there was still plenty we could do.

We were told that the only safe swimming hole in Kakadu at the moment was 6 kilometres from where we were, so we unhooked the van and connected up to their power for a couple of hours and headed off, not wanting to miss the opportunity to swim at Kakadu.  We don't even know the name of the waterhole - it is not on any maps and was not signposted.  We are so glad we went as it was just beautiful.  It had a heavily flowing waterfall at one end and the water was so refreshing.  What a special place and experience - swimming with our very excited kids under a waterfall in Kakadu.  A definite highlight.

From here we drove another 20kms to Bukbukluk - a lookout with views over the escarpment.  An amazing view - everything was so green from the wet season.  Chloe wasn't too excited as we had to walk 400 metres to get there and back.

From here we headed 127 kms north east to Jabiru, where we were staying.  The gas not working on the fridge was probably a blessing as the caravan park we stayed at was great - huge big pool, bar, restaurant, big grassy sites and it was so quiet.  Plus we had airconditioning, without which we quite possibly would have melted!  The temperature while we were here was around the mid 30's, which was fine but the humidity was so high.

On Monday we went for a 1.6 km return walk to Mirrai Lookout on top of Mount Cahill, 27kms south of Jabiru.  This was a very steep and rocky track and combined with the heat, it was tough.  However, we made it and were treated to a nice view of the surrounding land.  On the walk back down, Donna and Ben came very close to stepping on one of Donna's biggest fears - a snake!!  It wasn't a big snake, but it was still a snake and Donna's heart did not stop racing for about half an hour.  Thankfully, it slithered into the bush and off the path.

Next stop, Nourlangie, slightly north of Mirrai Lookout, well known for its aboriginal rock art.  We did a 2 km loop walk that took us past a number of rock art sites and was an easier walk.  The rock art was very impressive, especially given its age (some estimated at 5000 years old).

On Tuesday we were up very early (5am) as we went on a sunrise boat trip that started at Cooinda, 50kms south of where we were staying.  The trip commenced in Yellow Water Billabong and went up and down South Alligator River.  Being so early, it was nice and cool and the wildlife was fantastic.  Our guide was brilliant - her ability to spot birds, snakes and crocodiles was amazing.  Plus her knowledge of the wildlife, especially the birds was unbelievable.  We saw three saltwater crocodiles, two tree snakes, one water snake and so many different birds.  The family of Jabiru's just near where we started the cruise were gorgeous.  The scenery was just beautiful.  The early start was definitely worth it - we loved it.  A big buffet breakfast finished off the tour perfectly.

On Wednesday (ANZAC Day) morning we went to Ubirr, 40 kilometres north east of Jabiru.  On the way we needed to pass through three river crossings, the deepest being 0.6 metres.  The Prado got through with no worries at all.  Ubirr is the site of various aboriginal rock art sites.  An 1 kilometre walk took us past all of the rock art sites.  The preservation of the art was amazing.  Some of the rock art was in inaccessible places, such as underneath high rock ledges and very high up on rock faces.  How the art was in fact done we do not know??  Not only was the rock art amazing, the setting was just beautiful.

After seeing the rock art we climbed the nearby lookout, providing us with a spectacular view over the Nadab floodplain and Arnhem Land to the east.  We were absolutely blown away by the view.  It is very hard to put into words how amazing it was.

Ubirr would have to be one of our favourite spots in Kakadu.  We loved it so much that we went back on Wednesday night to watch the sunset.  Unfortunately it wasn't the best sunset as there was a lot of cloud, but it was beautiful none the less.  We will definitely remember where we spent ANZAC Day 2012.

Ubirr is on the west side of East Alligator River.  To the eastern side of the river is Arnhem Land.  To access Arnhem Land from this part of Kakadu, you must cross the river at Cahills Crossing.  When we were there, the crossing was 1.5 metres and the river was flowing very fast.  It would take a very brave person to make the crossing in these conditions, not to mention the fact that the river is also full of crocodiles!

We all loved our time at Kakadu.  From our swim at a beautiful waterfall, to the amazing rock art, the history, the remoteness, the natural beauty, the waterways, the amazing wildlife, the aboriginal culture and the changeability of the environment.  Such a unique and beautiful place.

Our next stop is Darwin.  We are all looking forward to exploring Darwin and seeing Grandma and Grandpa, who are flying in to meet us for a week.


Bukbukluk Lookout
Kids having fun in the pool at the caravan park

We made it to the top - Mirrai Lookout
Nourlangie



At the lookout at the end of the rock art walk
Yellow Water Sunset Cruise
Crocodile number one


The Jabiru family





Two brave fishermen
Tree snake


Another crocodile






Updating the map
River crossing out to Ubirr
Aboriginal rock art - Ubirr
Look at the roots on this fig tree!
Some of the many butterflies we saw




Ubirr Lookout - what a view!


East Alligator River

East Alligator River crossing to Arnhem Land
Beautiful black and red cockatoos
Ubirr Lookout at sunset
Our gorgeous Ben awaiting the sunset



More sunset shots

The photographer