The Old Ghan Railway (25/11/11)

We are now on our way back south, heading towards Clare.  We are following the Old Ghan Railway track.  This line was replaced by a new line further west in the early 1980's.  The Old Ghan track was once an important link to central Australia, and the SA section is definitely very scenic with the Flinders Ranges in the background.  Simon and the kids had great fun collecting “dog spikes” (held the railway line to the sleepers) and other relics of the past.  

Lake Eyre (25/11/11)

Co-pilots ready for takeoff

The kids were so excited to be flying in a 6 seater plane.   Lake Eyre was HUGE and it was great to see it with water in it.  Whilst the water has receded a bit from a few months ago, it still had heaps of water in it.  The last time it was so full was in 1974.  It is the size of Holland and is also famous for being the lowest point in Australia at 15.2m below sea level.

Unfortunately, the thin air and motion of the plane put Ben into a deep sleep for 1½ hours, so he missed seeing the lake!  A very expensive sleep!

It was a fantastic flight and it gave us an understanding of how harsh the environment is out here.  It also satisfied Simon’s desire to see Lake Eyre so we decided not to drive the 400km round trip on rough roads out to the lake.  Donna was somewhat relieved about this.  Simon took some great photos which will give you some idea of the lake and the barren environment.

Ready for our flight

Fast asleep, lollipop and all!

Lyndhurst (25/11/11 - 26/11/11)

We left Wilpena Pound with the intention of heading to Clare to catch up with family.  We stopped at the Yourambulla Caves just south of Hawker – some great aboriginal rock art and more walk trails!  We met a couple who had just been to Lake Eyre and raved about it.  Lake Eyre was one of Simon’s places to see while we were away, but we had gone off the idea somewhat, but after speaking to these people we decided we would do it after all.  So instead of heading to Clare we followed the old Ghan train line on the western side of the Flinders Ranges until we reached a tiny town called Lyndhurst.  The caravan park was basic but fine and we would rate it better than Coober Pedy.  The plan was to drive out to the Lake Eyre for a day trip.  However, plans changed once again.  We ended up going for a two hour flight over Lake Eyre.  AMAZING!!

Lyndhurst at sunset

Lyndhurst by day - not quite as nice than sunset shot!

Yourambulla Caves

View from Yourambulla Caves

Flinders Ranges - Wilpena Pound (23/11/11 - 25/11/11)

On Wednesday we had a short drive up to Wilpena in the Flinders ranges.  The Wilpena Pound Resort caravan park was lovely and so quiet, surrounded by huge red rivergum trees.  Again we found ourselves camped near the Taylor's.  They were probably beginning to think we were stalking them!  The kids had a great time exploring together.  

It was a lot cooler in the Flinders Ranges and we even had rain on day two and three.  On Thursday morning we did a great walk from our campsite into Wilpena Pound – 7.2kms away.  We didn’t realise it was so long when we set out, but thankfully the kids coped fine.  We saw kangaroos, an emu with its 6 babies, rock wallabies and a goat and its kid.  The view from the top lookout was fantastic – thank goodness given the climb up to the top was quite steep.  We are definitely getting our exercise!

Back to camp in time for birthday cake for morning tea.  It was Alex’s 8^th birthday so we made him a cake. 

We spent the afternoon exploring the Flinders Ranges – we were able to drive down through Brachina gorge – spectacular – unfortunately the kids were asleep when we were down there so we didn’t get out and explore.  Dinner with the Taylor’s and another birthday cake! 

We were woken the next morning (early) by a very cheeky and persistent kangaroo rummaging through our outside rubbish bin.  Simon's attempts to get rid of it resulted in the kangaroo hissing at him.  He had to resort to throwing a boot at him!

We loved the Flinders Ranges - so scenic, beautiful and quiet.  This is where we parted company with the Taylor’s unfortunately, but we look forward to catching up with them next year in Brisbane.

Walk track to Wilpena Pound

Wilpena Pound Homestead

We made it to the top!
Wilpena Pound top lookout.

Some of the beautiful Flinders Ranges scenery

Driving through Brachina Gorge

Ben running (again!)

Sharing cake with Lucas and Alex

The friendly resident kangaroos

Port Augusta (again!) (22/11/11 - 23/11/11)

570kms south to Port Augusta for the night to restock before heading to the Flinders Ranges.  Much to Chloe and Ben’s delight, the friends we had met in Ayers Rock (and met up again with in Kings Canyon and Coober Pedy) – Dave, Katrina, Alex, Lucas and Emily Taylor were staying at the same park.  So they spent the afternoon playing and we enjoyed a couple of drinks with Dave and Katrina.  The kids got in a quick play at the foreshore and Donna and the kids went for a nice walk, before heading off to Wilpena.

View of train from caravan park

Port Augusta Foreshore

Woomera (22/11/11)

South of Lake Hart is Woomera, where we stopped for a look around.  We had only heard of Woomera because of the old Woomera Detention Centre.  We learnt that Woomera was originally set up in the 1940's as a site for the launching of British experimental rockets.  The town was opened to the public in 1982.  The Australian Defence Force still has a presence there today.  The kids loved seeing the old rockets and planes that are on display.

Lake Hart (22/11/11)

We stopped at Lake Hart after leaving Coober Pedy.  A massive salt lake that was used for rocket testing in the 1950's and 60's.  I love this photo of Ben on the lake.

Coober Pedy (20/11/11 - 22/11/11)

Coober Pedy , what do we say? 

Definitely a unique place – have not seen any place like it before.  Coober Pedy is known for its opal mining – 80% of all opals mined in the world come from Coober Pedy.  The landscape surrounding Coober Pedy is covered with mullock heaps (discarded sandstone that has been removed from the ground when mining).  It is illegal to backfill the holes so instead of removing the heaps they remain on the ground!!  These mounds combined with trucks with an unusual contraption behind them (vacuums used to suck the sandstone out of the ground) and aerials and pipes across the ground (from dugouts – underground homes) make for a VERY unattractive view!

About half of the people living in Coober Pedy live underground, where the temperature is a consistent 24 degrees all year round.  Coober Pedy gets very hot so a pretty good way to avoid the heat.  Not only are there many underground homes, a lot of the buildings are underground too.  We did a brilliant town tour with Rudy – a 76 year old Austrian who was an opal miner for 50 years and quiet a character.  Plus we had him all to ourselves on the bus.  He took us to the Greek Orthodox Church which is underground.  It was such a beautiful church, hard to believe it was under the ground.  We then went “noodling” – sifting through extracted sandstone for opals that the miners have missed.  Not much luck finding opals but the kids had fun.  We went into an old underground opal mine and an underground home.  Beside the lack of windows the underground home was just like any other home – not as claustrophobic as we thought it would be, but still not sure if I could live underground! 

30kms north of Coober Pedy are The Breakaways – colourful low hills that have broken away from the Stuart Range which were once part of the ocean floor.  Two of the Mad Max movies were filmed here.   Simon and the kids had great fun fossicking for fossils, which they all managed to find. 

Unfortunately the caravan park we stayed at was not too flash.  We were all crammed into one area as part of the park was closed for renovations.  This we could handle, but the leaking sewerage we could not!!  As a result we have awarded the Stuart Range Caravan Park Coober Pedy the “worst caravan park” award!!  Needless to say we, especially Donna were not sad when we left.  

Great sunset though!

Coober Pedy Sunset

Underground Church

"Noodling" for opals

Underground home

Old underground opal mine

Coober Pedy town

Opal mine vacuum

The Breakaways

The fossickers

Kings Canyon (18/11/11 - 20/11/11)

A 300km drive from Yulara to Kings Canyon – a walk in the park compared to the drive up here.  We were amazed at how green and beautiful the countryside looked – obviously there has been plenty of rain.  We have been incredibly lucky here and at Ayers Rock with the temperatures we have had – highest being 38. 

Kings Canyon Caravan Park was huge, well set up and very quiet.  It also had the nicest pool so far.  The kids could have spent all day every day in the pool if they had their choice.

On Saturday morning Simon and Chloe headed off early – 6.30am to do the Kings Canyon Rim walk – a 6km walk, taking in the rim of the gorge, down into the gorge and then around the rim on the other side, taking about 2 hours.  The temperature stayed low, so when Simon and Chloe got back, Donna went and did it (1/2 an hour quicker mind you!!).  The start of the walk is incredibly tough – a very steep 600m climb to the top.  Chloe definitely set the pace for Simon and her walk – those young legs have endless energy in them!  We are very proud of Chloe doing such a tough walk and was such a nice Dad-daughter thing to do together.  After a recharge at the pool, we all did another, much easier walk into Kathleen Springs.  Flat the entire way.  You can imagine we all slept very well that night!

While here, the kids have been very excited to see a fair few wild animals – dingoes (even at Kings Canyon Caravan Park), camels, horses, rabbits and heaps of birds, including eagles and their favourite crested pigeons and spinifex pigeons.

This morning (Sunday) we headed off early for a big drive south, hopefully we will get to Coober Pedy.  We are looking forward to spending some time there exploring.  We are also looking forward to finding some cheaper diesel.  Fuel expenses have been BIG this week.

Despite the many hours of driving to get to Ayers Rock and Kings Canyon, it was well worth it – we have absolutely loved the experience.

We have driven 161kms today and have just passed our first car – so quiet up here!

Chloe the photographer!

Start of the big walk

Kathleen Springs

Ben and his new friend the lizard - Kathleen Springs

Old cattle yards on way to Kathleen Springs

Sunset