Kakadu (22/4/12 - 26/4/12)

From Katherine we drove 80 kilometres north west to Pine Creek and then headed north east into Kakadu National Park.  We stopped at the Goymarr Interpretative Centre at the southern entrance.  As it was the end of the wet season, a number of roads were still closed and inaccessible.  However, there was still plenty we could do.

We were told that the only safe swimming hole in Kakadu at the moment was 6 kilometres from where we were, so we unhooked the van and connected up to their power for a couple of hours and headed off, not wanting to miss the opportunity to swim at Kakadu.  We don't even know the name of the waterhole - it is not on any maps and was not signposted.  We are so glad we went as it was just beautiful.  It had a heavily flowing waterfall at one end and the water was so refreshing.  What a special place and experience - swimming with our very excited kids under a waterfall in Kakadu.  A definite highlight.

From here we drove another 20kms to Bukbukluk - a lookout with views over the escarpment.  An amazing view - everything was so green from the wet season.  Chloe wasn't too excited as we had to walk 400 metres to get there and back.

From here we headed 127 kms north east to Jabiru, where we were staying.  The gas not working on the fridge was probably a blessing as the caravan park we stayed at was great - huge big pool, bar, restaurant, big grassy sites and it was so quiet.  Plus we had airconditioning, without which we quite possibly would have melted!  The temperature while we were here was around the mid 30's, which was fine but the humidity was so high.

On Monday we went for a 1.6 km return walk to Mirrai Lookout on top of Mount Cahill, 27kms south of Jabiru.  This was a very steep and rocky track and combined with the heat, it was tough.  However, we made it and were treated to a nice view of the surrounding land.  On the walk back down, Donna and Ben came very close to stepping on one of Donna's biggest fears - a snake!!  It wasn't a big snake, but it was still a snake and Donna's heart did not stop racing for about half an hour.  Thankfully, it slithered into the bush and off the path.

Next stop, Nourlangie, slightly north of Mirrai Lookout, well known for its aboriginal rock art.  We did a 2 km loop walk that took us past a number of rock art sites and was an easier walk.  The rock art was very impressive, especially given its age (some estimated at 5000 years old).

On Tuesday we were up very early (5am) as we went on a sunrise boat trip that started at Cooinda, 50kms south of where we were staying.  The trip commenced in Yellow Water Billabong and went up and down South Alligator River.  Being so early, it was nice and cool and the wildlife was fantastic.  Our guide was brilliant - her ability to spot birds, snakes and crocodiles was amazing.  Plus her knowledge of the wildlife, especially the birds was unbelievable.  We saw three saltwater crocodiles, two tree snakes, one water snake and so many different birds.  The family of Jabiru's just near where we started the cruise were gorgeous.  The scenery was just beautiful.  The early start was definitely worth it - we loved it.  A big buffet breakfast finished off the tour perfectly.

On Wednesday (ANZAC Day) morning we went to Ubirr, 40 kilometres north east of Jabiru.  On the way we needed to pass through three river crossings, the deepest being 0.6 metres.  The Prado got through with no worries at all.  Ubirr is the site of various aboriginal rock art sites.  An 1 kilometre walk took us past all of the rock art sites.  The preservation of the art was amazing.  Some of the rock art was in inaccessible places, such as underneath high rock ledges and very high up on rock faces.  How the art was in fact done we do not know??  Not only was the rock art amazing, the setting was just beautiful.

After seeing the rock art we climbed the nearby lookout, providing us with a spectacular view over the Nadab floodplain and Arnhem Land to the east.  We were absolutely blown away by the view.  It is very hard to put into words how amazing it was.

Ubirr would have to be one of our favourite spots in Kakadu.  We loved it so much that we went back on Wednesday night to watch the sunset.  Unfortunately it wasn't the best sunset as there was a lot of cloud, but it was beautiful none the less.  We will definitely remember where we spent ANZAC Day 2012.

Ubirr is on the west side of East Alligator River.  To the eastern side of the river is Arnhem Land.  To access Arnhem Land from this part of Kakadu, you must cross the river at Cahills Crossing.  When we were there, the crossing was 1.5 metres and the river was flowing very fast.  It would take a very brave person to make the crossing in these conditions, not to mention the fact that the river is also full of crocodiles!

We all loved our time at Kakadu.  From our swim at a beautiful waterfall, to the amazing rock art, the history, the remoteness, the natural beauty, the waterways, the amazing wildlife, the aboriginal culture and the changeability of the environment.  Such a unique and beautiful place.

Our next stop is Darwin.  We are all looking forward to exploring Darwin and seeing Grandma and Grandpa, who are flying in to meet us for a week.

Bukbukluk Lookout

Kids having fun in the pool at the caravan park

We made it to the top - Mirrai Lookout

Nourlangie

At the lookout at the end of the rock art walk

Yellow Water Sunset Cruise

Crocodile number one

The Jabiru family

Two brave fishermen

Tree snake

Another crocodile

Updating the map

River crossing out to Ubirr

Aboriginal rock art - Ubirr

Look at the roots on this fig tree!

Some of the many butterflies we saw

Ubirr Lookout - what a view!

East Alligator River

East Alligator River crossing to Arnhem Land

Beautiful black and red cockatoos

Ubirr Lookout at sunset

Our gorgeous Ben awaiting the sunset

More sunset shots

The photographer

Katherine (20/4/12 - 22/4/12)

A 100 kilometre drive north and we were in Katherine.  Katherine has a population of about 11,000, a large proportion of which is indigenous.  Ben made us all laugh when he asked why there were so many "Aboriginal people from China" in Katherine.  Chloe quickly set him straight, by explaining that Aboriginals are actually Australians!

We stayed at a great caravan park about 6 kilometres from town.   It had huge, grassy sites and was very quiet.  It was very HOT in Katherine and the humidity was almost unbearable at times.  No wonder it was so quiet.  Thank goodness for the pool.

We all enjoyed a tour through the Cutta Cutta Caves, 23kms south of Katherine. The Cutta Cutta Caves are a limestone formation of stalactites and stalagmites. Cutta is the aboriginal word for stars, so Cutta Cutta refers to many stars. The stars refer to the many crystal formations that are found in the cave that look like stars.  The caves are home to five species of bats, including the rare ghost and horseshoe bats. The kids were fascinated by the crystals and the two ghost bats that flew through the cave while we were there.  We were hoping that the caves would provide some relief from the heat, but discovered that these caves are in fact very humid and not cool like most caves!

We enjoyed a swim in the Katherine Hot Springs, although we all agreed we still preferred Bitter Springs at Mataranka.

The highlight of our time in Katherine was the two hour boat cruise through Katherine Gorge.  Katherine Gorge is located 29kms east of Katherine in Nitmiluk National Park. The gorge consists of 13 natural gorges carved through sandstone by the Katherine River, with rocks and boulders separating each gorge. The cruise we did went through the first two gorges.  At the end of the first gorge we had to walk 500m around to the second gorge and hop onto another boat.  Katherine Canyon in gorge two was spectacular, as was the sheer rock face of Jada Rock.  We saw two fresh water crocodiles and went into a cave with a small waterfall.  The scenery was absolutely stunning.   Poor Ben did not cope so well with the heat, so he was very glad when we were back and in the air conditioned car.

Katherine Gorge is home to freshwater crocodiles year round and saltwater crocodiles during the wet season when water levels rise.  When the water recedes in the dry season, many saltwater crocodiles get stuck so they are trapped and removed - supposedly!

The Nitmiluk National Park belongs to the Jawolyn aboriginal people.  It was interesting to learn about their culture, their uses for various trees and plants and their beliefs.  Our Jawolyn tour guide, Chris was great.  He explained how he makes didgeridoo (from salmon gum tree branches that are eaten hollow by white ants) and gave us a demo, which was wonderful.  Apparently he sells his didgeridoos for $1500!  He informed us that he has caught crocodiles before, but does not eat them (he thinks they smell) and his meat of choice is "any meat from Woolworths!"

After the cruise we headed back into Katherine and then north to Kakadu.  Simon and Donna were very excited about Kakadu - one of the places we both really want to see and experience.  The plan was to stay at some of the campgrounds in Kakadu and free camp.  However, our plans changed when we tried to run our fridge on gas while doing the gorge cruise.  The gas would not light!  This meant no power for our fridge.  So....caravan parks it will be!

Until Kakadu...

Cutta Cutta Caves

Katherine Hot Springs

Katherine Gorge Cruise - gorge one

End of gorge one

Walking to 2nd gorge

Gorge two

Katherine Canyon

Into the cave

Almost back

Our guide

Mataranka (19/4/12 - 20/4/12)

Our drive from Daly Waters to Mataranka was a walk in the park, a mere 144km drive.  Mataranka is on the Roper River and is 100kms south west of Katherine.  It has a population of 250 and services outlying cattle stations and Aboriginal communities.  This area was made famous in the Jeannie Gunn novel, "We of the Never Never," written in 1908 about nearby Elsey Station.

Mataranka is well known for its thermal springs in Elsey National Park.  Many people believe they have therapeutic powers.  Bitter Springs thermal pool was our first stop, not far from where we were staying.  This was a beautiful spot.  This spring-fed pool is set amongst palms and paperbarks.  The current takes you down the spring to a pool at the end, where you can get out and walk back.  You can swim back against the current, but we were too lazy!  The water was clear and a lovely 33 degrees.  We had two swims here, the second at 7am on the morning we left.  It was on this swim that the kids spotted a number of turtles, which was very exciting.  The kids just loved it here and could have stayed all day.  What a way to start the day - just beautiful!

We visited Mataranka Thermal Pools after our first swim at Bitter Springs.  These pools have a constant water temperature of 34 degrees and flows from Rainbow Springs at 30.5 million litres a day.  It is surrounded by palm trees and is a lot shallower than Bitter Springs.  We enjoyed our swim here too, but we all preferred Bitter Springs.  Bitter Springs was in a more natural setting, whereas Mataranka Springs had some concrete walls and a walk ledge.  Plus there were turtles at Bitter Springs.

Simon and the kids tried their luck at catching some redclaw and cherabin in the river a short walk from our campsite.  They caught two cherabin, one which was massive.  They also caught a small turtle, but thankfully it was returned to the river unharmed.

We really enjoyed our time at Mataranka and the thermal pools were a definite highlight.

Bitter Springs Thermal Pool - turtle searching

Morning swim - beautiful.  Bitter Spring

Mataranka Thermal Pool

Elsey Station Homestead Replica